Before installing the flooring, the substrate must be properly prepared:
Wood Substrate
1) Remove quarteround
2) If there are squeaks, use flooring screws (not drywall screws) to fasten the sub-floor to the joist. Screws should be spaced 8” on the joist. All screw heads must be countersunk.
3) Install ¼” underlayment over existing sub-floor. Most commonly used are fir or mahogany good-one-side. Ensure joints in underlayment sheets don’t line-up with joints in sub-floor. Staple sheets down using a ¾” – 1” long staple with 2” spacing on the joints and 6” spacing in the centre of the sheets. Staples should be mildly countersunk. (ring-nails can be used in place of staples)
4) Use a leveling compound that is approved by the flooring manufacturer (Ardex Feather Finish is recommended) to patch the joints in the plywood. After applying two coats with drying time between coats, scrape or sand the compound till it is smooth.
Concrete Substrate
1) A moisture test is recommended. When tested using the ASTM F 2170 method, the internal relative humidity shall not exceed 75%.
2) Remove quarteround
3) Ensure concrete is smooth, scrape any bumps and level any dips using a leveling compound that is approved by the manufacturer (Ardex Feather Finish is recommended).
*Existing Vinyl or Ceramic Substrate
1) Remove quarteround
2) (if vinyl substrate) If there are squeaks, use flooring screws (not drywall screws) to fasten the sub-floor to the joist. Screws should be spaced approximately 8” on the joist. All screw heads must be countersunk. (may be best to remove existing flooring and follow steps of "Wood Substrate")
3) Skim-coat over existing vinyl or ceramic, using an embossment filling compound that is approved by the flooring manufacturer, with two coats allowing drying time between coats. Scrape or sand the compound till it is smooth
Installing the floor
1) Roll sheet flooring out in room
2) Ensure roll is straight by measuring from the wall to a selected “grout” line in the floor. Move floor till it is positioned straight and floor is centered as desired.
3) Using a knife with a “hook-blade” cut the floor following the walls. Gaps up to 1/8” are acceptable where quarteround is to be installed. In areas where no quarteround or other trim will cover, such as hand railings or cabinets, cut as tight as possible without creating a bubble in the floor.
4) If there is a seam, line up pattern and double-cut using a straight edge and straight blade knife.
5) Pull back half the floor (ensure there is weight on other half to prevent movement) and apply glue. Use glue and trowel recommended by manufacturer
6) After waiting the time recommended by the glue manufacturer, fold down half of floor that was pulled up. Applying pressure to an industrial broom, sweep any bubbles out of the floor towards the walls. (if there is a seam, apply sealer in-between the joint prior to folding down the second half of the floor, wipe up access sealer with a wet rag after both sides of seam are folded down)
7) Roll the floor using a 100 lbs roller
8) Repeat steps 5 – 7 for any remaining section that is not yet glued.
9) (re)install quarteround
10) silicone at handrailing, cabinets, door jams or other areas where there will be no trim
11) install metal transition strips in doorways where new flooring meets old
*This procedure is only permissible if:
-there is only one layer of existing flooring
-existing flooring is secure and has been full-spread glued
For other questions about flooring product or installation, contact Bert Vis Flooring and Cabinets
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