Bert Vis Blogger

Choosing the right laminate flooring

2011-06-30T12:18:00.000-07:00

Anyone who’s in the market for laminate flooring knows the selection is mind-boggling. With varying thicknesses of laminate and different “click” systems how is the consumer to know which product is good and which is not. With big-box stores selling laminate the confusion is further multiplied.

The purpose of this post is to answer your questions about laminate and help you choose a product that will look good in your home for years to come.

Why the price difference?

If you’ve been shopping around, you have probably discovered that the price of laminate can vary from as low as 69 cents a sq ft to over $5.00 sq ft. There are a number of reasons for the price difference.

1) A laminate selling for 69 cents a sq ft is likely a low quality loss leader. The price is likely only good for 1 or 2 days and subject to product availability. The catch is, you will likely pay more for the underlay, moldings or other supplies needed to complete the project. In the event you run short and want to purchase more to complete the project, don’t be surprised to find the product is no longer available.

2) Door crasher pricing isn’t the only reason for price variation. Laminate is much like any other product on the market…you get what you pay for. When you see a low price, there’s much to lookout out for.

What to look for in a Laminate

The application will determine the level of quality you will need in a laminate. I will focus on laminate that will be purchased to be enjoyed by the consumer long-term rather than a flip house or home to be placed on the real estate market.

1) Square or Bevel edge

The edge of the laminate has a large impact on the overall look of the finished product.

A square edge laminate will result in a completely smooth finished product, similar to a tabletop that has pieces of wood laminated together. A square edge will be less expensive because it’s easier to make. A square edge laminate in a single strip plank (one plank simulates only one board) can simulate a real wood look. A two or three strip plank (one plank simulates two or three boards with a fake joint) tends to look artificial when finished.

A beveled edge is always manufactured in a single strip and is designed to simulate pre-finished hardwood flooring. There are two methods that manufacturers use to finish a beveled edge. One method is to stain the beveled edge to match the laminate. The better method is to have the laminated picture wrap around the bevel. The laminate with the wrapped edge will look more realistic, and be less likely to swell at the joint from moisture. It will also last longer because the stain on a stained edge tends to wear off.

2) Click System

The click system will ultimately determine whether or not your laminate flooring will stay together long term. Poor click systems are what make a laminate difficult to install, gap over time and impossible to repair. A drop and lock system makes for easy installation, but should the laminate get damaged in the future, board replacements are difficult. The best click system in the industry is the Uniclic joint. This patented click system can withstand 1000 lbs of pressure per meter and not come apart. The Uniclic joint is used by Torlys and enables the product to be taken apart and re-installed in three different rooms under warranty. The Uniclic joint holds the laminate so tight together water is unlikely to penetrate the joint.

3) AC rating

The AC rating is the system used to measure a laminate’s durability.

The AC rating measures a laminate’s resistance to abrasion, impact, stains and burn resistance. The rating ranges from AC-1, which is the lowest, to AC-5 which is the highest rating. Laminates with an AC-4 and 5 rating are designed for commercial applications. AC ratings 1 – 3 can be broken down as follows:

AC 1
House, One Person, (Residential, Moderate Traffic: Suitable for bedrooms or guest rooms)

AC 2
Residential, General Traffic: Suitable for living rooms or dining rooms

AC 3
Residential, Heavy Traffic: Suitable for all areas

A rating of no less than AC 3 is required in order for a laminate to be suitable for all areas of the home. AC 3 or higher is also required for light commercial applications. Any laminate that does not have an AC rating, either hasn’t been tested, or has failed the AC test. Many of the Torlys laminate products have an AC 4 rating.

4) Pattern Repeat

A laminate plank consists of a picture of wood or tile being applied to a High Density Fiberboard core. The more visuals, the fewer planks there will be with the exact same picture. Lower priced products are likely to be more repetitive with a 1 in 4 pattern repeat. Quality products like Torlys start with a 1 in 10 pattern repeat and go higher.

5) Core Density

Contrary to what may seem logical, product thickness is not the primary factor that determines whether or not a laminate has a good core. A true High Density Fiberboard will have a density of at least 800kg/m3. Anything less is a Medium Density Fiberboard that will compromise the integrity of the laminate. An 8mm laminate with an HDF core will be more dent resistant than a 15mm laminate with an MDF core.

6) Swell rate

As much as we may try to prevent them, spills happen. When sitting liquid goes unnoticed, it will eventually penetrate the joint. A laminate with high absorption will noticeably swell when exposed to moisture. Although laminates in North America can have an absorption rate of up to 50%, a quality laminate by Torlys has an absorption rate of less than 8%

7) Warranty

A product is only as good as its warranty. Likewise, a 20 year warranty offered by a no name brand can only be honoured as long as the manufacturer is in business. Torlys, a laminate manufacturer which operates out of Toronto, was founded in 1988. Torlys laminate can be disassembled and re-installed in another room under warranty. In fact, their 35 year warranty permits installation up to 3 times by do-it-yourselfers without affecting coverage.

After researching that low priced laminate, you may find that deal that seems just too good to be true…probably is.

How do I install fiber sheet flooring?

2011-03-22T14:54:00.000-07:00

Before installing the flooring, the substrate must be properly prepared:

Wood Substrate

1) Remove quarteround

2) If there are squeaks, use flooring screws (not drywall screws) to fasten the sub-floor to the joist. Screws should be spaced 8” on the joist. All screw heads must be countersunk.

3) Install ¼” underlayment over existing sub-floor. Most commonly used are fir or mahogany good-one-side. Ensure joints in underlayment sheets don’t line-up with joints in sub-floor. Staple sheets down using a ¾” – 1” long staple with 2” spacing on the joints and 6” spacing in the centre of the sheets. Staples should be mildly countersunk. (ring-nails can be used in place of staples)

4) Use a leveling compound that is approved by the flooring manufacturer (Ardex Feather Finish is recommended) to patch the joints in the plywood. After applying two coats with drying time between coats, scrape or sand the compound till it is smooth.

Concrete Substrate

1) A moisture test is recommended. When tested using the ASTM F 2170 method, the internal relative humidity shall not exceed 75%.

2) Remove quarteround

3) Ensure concrete is smooth, scrape any bumps and level any dips using a leveling compound that is approved by the manufacturer (Ardex Feather Finish is recommended).

*Existing Vinyl or Ceramic Substrate

1) Remove quarteround

2) (if vinyl substrate) If there are squeaks, use flooring screws (not drywall screws) to fasten the sub-floor to the joist. Screws should be spaced approximately 8” on the joist. All screw heads must be countersunk. (may be best to remove existing flooring and follow steps of "Wood Substrate")

3) Skim-coat over existing vinyl or ceramic, using an embossment filling compound that is approved by the flooring manufacturer, with two coats allowing drying time between coats. Scrape or sand the compound till it is smooth

Installing the floor

1) Roll sheet flooring out in room

2) Ensure roll is straight by measuring from the wall to a selected “grout” line in the floor. Move floor till it is positioned straight and floor is centered as desired.

3) Using a knife with a “hook-blade” cut the floor following the walls. Gaps up to 1/8” are acceptable where quarteround is to be installed. In areas where no quarteround or other trim will cover, such as hand railings or cabinets, cut as tight as possible without creating a bubble in the floor.

4) If there is a seam, line up pattern and double-cut using a straight edge and straight blade knife.

5) Pull back half the floor (ensure there is weight on other half to prevent movement) and apply glue. Use glue and trowel recommended by manufacturer

6) After waiting the time recommended by the glue manufacturer, fold down half of floor that was pulled up. Applying pressure to an industrial broom, sweep any bubbles out of the floor towards the walls. (if there is a seam, apply sealer in-between the joint prior to folding down the second half of the floor, wipe up access sealer with a wet rag after both sides of seam are folded down)

7) Roll the floor using a 100 lbs roller

8) Repeat steps 5 – 7 for any remaining section that is not yet glued.

9) (re)install quarteround

10) silicone at handrailing, cabinets, door jams or other areas where there will be no trim

11) install metal transition strips in doorways where new flooring meets old

*This procedure is only permissible if:

-there is only one layer of existing flooring

-existing flooring is secure and has been full-spread glued

For other questions about flooring product or installation, contact Bert Vis Flooring and Cabinets

The most important question you can ask when having new flooring installed

2011-01-04T14:10:00.000-08:00

Who will be installing my new flooring?

At Bert Vis Flooring we have our own trained professionals who are employed by us. Having our own installers has a number of benefits for both us and our customers:

1) Trust

-Trust is built over time and requires a close working relationship with the installers.

2) Quality control

-Independent contractors will have their own methods of installing which are not necessarily developed through adequate training. Our installers receive all the education and updates required to install the products available today.

3) Warranty

-Manufacturers will not honour a warranty claim which has resulted from improper installation. At Bert Vis Flooring, if there are issues after the installation with either the product, or the installation, and the customer has followed the manufacturer’s care instructions, the warranty will be honoured. .

4) Insurance

-We are fully insured and our installers follow WSIB and WHMIS guidelines.

The quality installation performed by our installers is what makes us a BBB accredited Business.

New Q & A Blog

2010-12-24T09:26:00.000-08:00

New for 2011 is this ‘questions and answer’ blog. Its purpose is to help you with any questions you may have when purchasing flooring or cabinets. If you’ve already made the purchase and have questions about installation, we are able to help there as well.

Our hope is also to occasionally post an “Ask the Expert” article when time permits. As a rule, we will try to have an answer to your questions within one or two business days. This will only work if you participate, so don’t be shy.